Picking the Right Heat for Your Bathroom
Nobody likes stepping out of a hot shower into a freezing bathroom. It’s a shock to the system. That’s why we built our infrared lamps to handle the steam and splashes of a bathroom without blowing a fuse. But here is the trick: you don’t just want “the most power.” You want the right power.
Size Matters
If you’re dealing with a tiny powder room—you know, those little spaces under 4m²—keep it simple. A 250W to 400W lamp is plenty. If you go overboard and put a massive heater in a tiny closet of a room, the thermostat will just kick on and off every two minutes. It’s annoying, and it wears out the equipment way faster than it should. Now, if you’ve got a bigger master bath (around 8m² to 12m²), you’ll want to jump up to 600W or 1000W. Here is why: infrared doesn’t really “heat the air” like a space heater does. It warms you and the walls directly. In a big room, you’re usually standing further away from the lamp, so you lose that “sun-on-your-skin” feeling. The higher wattage makes up for that distance.
The Deal with IP44
We use an IP44 rating. In plain English? It means the unit is sealed up tight. It can take a splash of water or a cloud of steam from any direction and keep on ticking. But there is a catch. Because the housing is so well-sealed to keep the water out, the heat doesn’t escape the internal wiring as easily. This is where you need to be careful. Make sure your wiring gauge matches the wattage of the lamp. You don’t want your cables getting toasted inside the walls.
A Few Pro Tips for Setup
First off, give these units their own dedicated circuit. It’s just safer and more reliable. And if you want to save on your electric bill, mount the lamps in the “dry zone”—away from the actual shower spray. When the lamp isn’t fighting a wall of thick moisture, it hits that cozy operating temperature much faster. You get the warmth you want, and the lamp doesn’t have to work twice as hard to get you there.